© S. Peter Smith, 1996
96 is looking good - so far.... it's very early yet! There was plenty of humidity in the soil throughout the winter, and then warm weather helped the new growth get established. April and May were cold, and many growers were starting to get concerned. Then the weather suddenly changed in time for the flowering and our latest tour at the start of June. The smell of the delicate fragrances from the tiny flowers was wonderful as we walked through the warm vineyards. In the words of François Mitjaville, owner of Tertre Roteboeuf in St. Emilion and Roc des Cambes in Côte de Bourg, "the vines are happy and comfortable". Now we just have to pray for the good luck to hold!
As for 1995, the mood is justifiably elated! As you've already read from everyone's tasting notes, the 95's are certainly one of the most exciting vintages in recent years. For the Bordeaux winemaker it's not just because it was a great harvest. There's a feeling that the consumers in the USA and in Asia are getting over the speculation of the late 80's and are now buying futures to cellar and eventually drink.
The 95's themselves? François Mitjaville says that for him the vintage demonstrates, more than any other, the differences in terroir between his two properties. Always a romantic philosopher, Francois describes the Tertre Roteboeuf as an "evolved, refined, harmonic wine, that's soft yet deep with subtle power, like classical music" while the Roc des Cambes is "a rugby player - blacker colors, obvious strength, like a spectacular rock concert!" Both wines, however present the big, fat, soft tannins that came from a crop with very few seeds and very thick skins.
Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux welcomes the seriousness of the 95 futures' buyers, and feels that the wine is worthy of these serious consumers. He compares Margaux's 95 to something between the '85 and '86, a truly "classic" example of the traditional terroir of the Margaux appellation. He recognizes the importance of the American market, but has no intention of ever changing the style of Margaux to attract buyers. Americans recognize the great classics as a breed apart and have no problem appreciating them as they develop.
Bernard Gans and Lucien Guillemet are owner and winemaker respectively of Chateaux Cadet Bon in St. Emilion. In the last 10 years they have rebuilt the property from a neglected state and produce fine classic St. Emilion. Their style of winemaking differs from the popular sur maturité sought by many; they look for an optimum maturity, but not necessarily a maximum. 1995 saw a mix of very high sugar levels in some lots of Merlot with more moderate "classic" maturity in the Cabernet Franc. Barrel samples clearly show the differences in various lots, and making our own cuvées in the cellar we had a glimpse of the great potential for the final blend.
Bruno Lemoine of Chateau Montrose expresses his normal reserved evaluation of the year. Here, changes occur over decades, where wines can age 15-20 years before drinking. Bruno is overjoyed with the 95 Montrose. A wine that will be ready early, but with long life, and a structure and elegance quite surprising for Montrose. A lot of ripe, soft tannins with great strength but no astringency, similar to the '90 but with more elegance and without the sur maturité of the 1990.
Finally a look at Domaine de Chevalier, where manager Remi Edange was as happy with his reds as everyone else. However, the white wine here is what's really special. This chateau produces, in my opinion, some of the very best white wine anywhere in the world, and in 1995 Remi enjoyed some of the most perfect conditions since he started working here in the early '80's. Picking started very early in the last days of August, and was completed before the first drop of rain fell in September. 1995 should be the finest year in a long time for the whites of Pessac Léognan in northern Graves!
I was also setting up some of the details of the Wine Club Bordeaux tours:
- Dinner with Remi and his older vintages of red and white Domaine de Chevalier
- Vertical and horizontal tastings with dinner at Cadet Bon
- A special evening with the Maitre de Chais from Ragnaud Sabourin, one of the premier producers of Grande Fine Champagne Cognac
We'll taste the 95's after a year in barrel, and get the first look at the 1996 vintage!
This page created by and copyright of S. Peter Smith, Avalon Tours, 1996