While players in Mediaeval costume entertained amongst the tables and others dressed as fantastic diabolic creatures prowled the night, this privileged group of oenophiles and gastronomes enjoyed a meal specially prepared under the critical eye of Michel Troisgros. One of France's top chefs whose restaurant in Roanne has long held three coveted stars from Michélin, Troisgros was brought from the other side of France for the occasion to create the menu and supervise the kitchen. Perhaps even more important for the lucky consumers of this feast, the meal was accompanied by seven of St. Emilion's great wines, culminating with the Premiers Crus of Figeac, Ausone and Cheval Blanc.
Many of the great names of the wine world were of course present; growers, winemakers and journalists such as James Lawther, Serena Sutcliff and David Pepercorn from England, Rolf Bischel and Michel Bettane, France's "Parker". The president of Vin Expo, Madame Heriard-Dubreuil was of course present, also the Duc d'Angoulême. With Vin Expo, the world's most important wine fair opening in Bordeaux the following Monday, this was a "must" add-on for anyone who could get an invite; a weekend of pageantry, indulgence and relaxation before getting down to the hard graft of the most important commercial week of the year.
The incoming President of the Jurade is Hubert de Bouard, owner of Chateau Angelus, who was seen throughout the weekend ushering around the two celebrity invitees, French actors Patrick Bruel and Vincent Lindon. Hubert has been enjoying life considerably since his property was upgraded to Premier Grand Crus status in the revision of St. Emilion's classification in 1995/6 - not least due to the doubling of the futures prices of his wines! A thoroughly decent person and very hard-working and serious winemaker, his success is certainly well earned.
This year marks the 800th anniversary of the Jurade, and St. Emilion is celebrating in style! There are two major events in the year that bring people from all corners of the world to this tiny wine village; the Fete de Printemps in June and the Fete des Vendanges in September.
The Fete de Printemps celebrates the flowering of the vines, which marks the official start to the growing season and the hope and promise of a fine harvest later in the year. It also declares the quality of the last harvest which is maturing in the cellars. The Fete des Vendanges of course celebrates the culmination of the year's growth and the official start of the harvest itself.
Other celebrations from June to December will include the Fete of the Summer Solstice, Shakespearean theater, exhibitions of art, musical soirées in the chateaux, tastings, seminars and historical expositions. The members of the Jurade will open the doors of their cellars and their homes to welcome visitors throughout the summer months between the Fete de Printemps and the Fete des Vendanges. On a more serious note, the regional newspaper Sud-Ouest will sponsor a debate on "Wine and Health" in Libourne on September 13.
Apart from the events in St. Emilion itself, this festival year is being celebrated far and wide by representatives and friends of the village. The first official event of the year was held in London on April 14; the auction of 212 lots of St. Emilion wines - large formats only - at Sotheby's. The sale of these wines donated by the viticulteurs of St. Emilion brought a total of 435,300 Francs ($75,000) to the coffers of the Jurade. A magnum of 1990 Cheval Blanc sold for 5,200 Francs, but the most notable lot was a double magnum of Chateau Tertre Roteboeuf. At 10,000 Francs ($1,725) this bottle fetched over 5 times it's estimate, indicative of the status of Francois Mitjaville, the superbly talented and eternally humble owner of this fine estate.
In Belgium there will be a grand tasting of St. Emilion's 1998 vintage in early September, followed by a gala dinner and a chapter of the Jurade for professionals and amateurs (Belgium is the largest export market for St. Emilion's wines). Exports to all parts of the world are of course vital to the region, and as always St. Emilion had a strong presence to support the reputation of it's wines at Vin Expo, the enormous bi-annual wine fair held in Bordeaux in June.
The Jurade was formed as the governing body of the mediaeval city of St. Emilion back in the 12th Century by the Charter of Falaise. John Lackland, king of England (and brother of Richard the Lionheart) who controlled the Aquitaine region of France, gave St. Emilion by this charter the right to self-government on June 8, 1199. Wine being a major concern of this monastic city, the Jurade controlled the production and consumption of wine as it controlled everything else.
The Jurade gradually lost it's power as the Church and the Monasteries were stripped of their influence, and finally died out altogether with the French Revolution. It was not reinstated until 1948, but this time not to govern the whole town, being now involved only in the wine trade.
Actually the Jurade is now principally a promotional body for the winemakers rather than a controlling body - this is done by the quasi-government INAOC (Institute National d'Appellation Controllée). As with the Confèrie des Tastevins in Burgundy and the Commanderie de Bontemps of Bordeaux, the Jurade is mainly concerned with supporting the image of St. Emilion's wines throughout the world.
As with the other major brotherhoods of wine, the Jurade has many thousands of associates in various chapters throughout the world in addition to the members and 50-strong governing council in St. Emilion itself. "Chapters" or festive dinners are held by the Jurade for special occasions in various countries, where tastings and ceremonial inductions of new members are organized to further the exposure of St. Emilion's wines. There are many reasons to visit St. Emilion this year, from the gala evening on June 12 through the Bans des Vendanges on September 19 - but of course the main reason, the wine, is always there!
Royale de Homard, truffes à la Fleurette
Lobster Royale with truffles
Rouelle de jarret de veau braisée, cèpes secs et petite tomate crémeuse
Braised shin of veal, dried cèpe mushrooms and creamed cherry tomatoes
Feuilleté au bleu d'Auvergne et à la figue
Blue Auvergne cheese on a puff pastry biscuit with fig conserve
Opaline de framboises au citron vert
Raspberry gateau with lime