Early spring is a wonderful time to capture the essence of life in the vineyards of France. There's nothing like a walk through the fields in the brisk morning air as the buds are forming on the branches. As the lingering dew sparkles in the sunshine you really feel that you're stealing a march on the world, savoring the peace before the storm of tourists who are bound to arrive in the heat of summer.
The same applies of course to the late fall. Once the kids have gone back to school the hectic pace of the summer Vacances Scolaires rapidly shifts down a couple of gears. September finds the motor-coaches taking advantage of good weather and reduced rates for package tours, often busy with seniors. By mid-October the holiday season has really run its course, and southwest France has settled back into its quiet rural lifestyle. No doubt about it, the smart travelers plan their trip out of season!
For me, the best time for a serious wine tour has to be the late fall. If you arrange a wine-tasting trip carefully at this time of year you can expect to meet the people who make the wine rather than a tourist guide, and have time to ask your own questions about their work. The harvest is over and there's a more even-paced feel about life. You also stand a better chance of getting into the vineyards of your choice (many vineyards are actually closed for visits in August and September).
A proper taste of the Bordeaux region really requires at least six days, though of course you can moisten your lips with just two or three if need be. You'll want to visit the great chateaux of the Médoc along the Gironde estuary, famous for their classification in 1855 which produced the elite "Grands Crus". To the north of Bordeaux the beautiful Mediaeval walled village of St. Emilion is not only one of the most picturesque in France but is also home to some of its finest wines. The village is also neighbor to other wines of perhaps even more fame in Pomerol, just 5 minutes drive through the peaceful vineyards. The Graves area starts in the southern suburbs of Bordeaux and extends southeast through the rolling countryside beside the Garonne river as far as Sauternes. Each of these stops warrants at least two nights, and more if time allows.
Many visitors stay in the city of Bordeaux itself, where there are several good hotels. Staying in the city however entails a drive of at least 40 minutes to reach most of the major wine regions of Bordeaux. If you want to feel part of the vineyards and get the true feel of being here, you should try to stay in the countryside. There are a range of accommodations throughout the various parts of Bordeaux, from modest B&B's to sophisticated 4* luxury hotels, though in most cases you'll need to make reservations well in advance.
Visiting the major chateaux of the Médoc is fairly easy. Many are open to casual visits, and are set up to receive tourists, with guides and standardized tours . However, if you're looking for more than a "tourist" visit, you should take the time to call or write ahead and make an appointment for a private tour. This way you will be received as a serious visitor rather than a tourist, and with luck might have the undivided attention of the manager or Cellarmaster. Note, however that many of these key people do not speak English, so you will need a translator if you don't speak French.
The First-Growth chateaux of the Médoc include Latour, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild with it's wonderful art museum and Lafite Rothschild. Appointments should be made weeks or months in advance at these chateaux. There are several other properties of special interest. An obvious choice is Cos d'Estournel in St. Estèphe (the 's' in Cos is pronounced), which you can't miss with it's unique oriental architecture. Pichon Baron, one of several chateaux owned by the AXA insurance group, is one of the most modern wineries in France. You'll be taken around by a tour guide rather than the winemaker unless you make special arrangements, but nevertheless it's worth a visit.
Bordeaux's wineries are rapidly changing these days, with lots of profit to re-invest after the huge price rises of the vintages since 1995, and pressure from all sides to modernize and "sanitize". Chateau Palmer in Margaux was until the '95 harvest the epitome of the traditional French winery, with oak vats, cobweb-strewn cellars and the fourth generation of winemakers to show you around. Owner Peter Sichel has now invested in a new state-of-the-art fermentation room with all stainless-steel vats, and along with the turnaround to sophisticated equipment, upon the retirement of the old guard of the family a completely new management team has taken over.
Another very traditional chateau is Montrose (the 't' is not pronounced!) in St. Éstèphe - not the easiest to arrange to visit but one of the most interesting if you get the chance. You will be shown around by manager Philippe Delagarigue, who replaced Bruno Lemoine in 1998. Hurry, though if you want to see it as it was, as construction is under way of a brand new stainless fermenting room! Just down the road from Montrose is the amazing Chateau Haut-Marbuzet, where the slightly eccentric Henri Duboscq sells every bottle directly from the chateau to hundreds of loyal customers who often drive across Europe to pick up their purchases themselves. The wine, needless to say, is very good! This is still the ultimate in old style winemaking, where until the 1998 vintage the wine was even bottled directly form the barrel.
One "must" stop on the way up the Médoc is Chateau Maucaillou, where the owner Philippe Dourthe has created perhaps the best wine museum in the Bordeaux region. Apart from the museum, Maucaillou is well worth stopping to taste some of the best wine from the Moulis appellation, and one of the Médoc's best values. There are countless other classified chateaux and Cru Bourgeois such as Lynch-Bages, Poujeaux, Leoville Poyferre, Langoa-Barton, Gruaud-Larose, Ducru-Beaucaillou and many more, all of which have something special to offer in a visit. Your only constraint is time!
As you arrive in the Médoc from Bordeaux the first major appellation you come to is Margaux. Here you'll find the Pavilion de Margaux, a friendly, comfortable hotel which opened in 1997, with eight large en-suite rooms and a fine restaurant. About five minutes walk away on the other side of the village is the Savoie, another excellent spot to dine. The Relais de Margaux was opened several years ago about 2 km to the north of the village, and has had a spotted history as it went through several owners. The present owner bought the property in early 1998, and has added rooms, upgraded the hotel and restaurant and has plans to open a spa in the future.
About five minutes north of Margaux is the world-famous Lion d'Or in Arcins, where over the past fifteen years or so Jean-Paul Barbier and his wife have created the Médoc's most popular restaurant. If you eat here you'll likely be sitting amongst several of the Médoc's key winemakers and negoçiants as you enjoy the excellent and authentic regional cooking.
Driving north through the Médoc there is the modest B&B of Cap Leon Veyrin in Listrac and Les Sapins in Moulis, but not other "real" hotels until you reach Pauillac. Here is the well-known Relais & Chateau of Cordeillan-Bages, where you will find all the typical comforts you'd expect in a luxury hotel designed for the American tourist. The restaurant has a Michelin star, with service and prices to match. Pauillac has a couple of other hotels, but without any special charm. Within easy reach of Pauillac is the superb cooking of Claude Broussard at Le St. Julien, who opened his doors in 1997 to quickly become one of the locals' favorites.
North of Pauillac there are no more hotels, but you will find some charming B&Bs. In the village of Pez, right next to St. Emilion is the homely Clos de Puyzac, where Marie-José Fatin usually welcomes her guests in her kitchen as she fusses over a bubbling cauldron of home-made jam. Breakfast on the terrace here features a sampling of the 2500 pots she produces each year! The Peyrat restaurant down by the river in St. Estèphe is an excellent spot if you're looking for local color and good value - the soup here is famous, and the coffee some of the best in Bordeaux! Just up the hill in the village, St. Estèphe's church should not be missed. From the outside it looks like a modest village church, but the inside was renovated in 1996 and is truly spectacular.
This north end of the Médoc is much quieter Pauillac, and if you venture just a little further to the village of Vertheuil you can stay in the tranquillity of Michelle Tardat's B&B, "Cantemerle". Michelle is a well-traveled local girl, and her lovely family home has three guest rooms with private baths, decorated beautifully with an eclectic collection from her journeys. Besides her warm welcome and good English, Michelle will cook a delicious dinner for her guests. Don't leave Vertheuil without visiting it's ancient church and abbey, and consider also paying a visit to the tiny cooperage of M. Lassere, who will let you watch the barrels being built, and also makes a very drinkable and affordable Haut-Médoc.
Finally, if you need a break from wine, there are other diversions in the Médoc. Golfers can take time out to play the twin courses of the Golf du Médoc at Le Pian, close to Listrac, where the French Open was played in 1999. The Médoc is a peninsular bordered on the east by the Gironde estuary and on the west by the Atlantic. The coast provides vacation resorts and campgrounds for the thousands of tourists that visit in the summer months, but out of season you can find a few nice restaurants open in places like Montalivet, Hourtin or Lacanau, where a brisk walk over the dunes makes a nice change from the cellars.
Half an hour's drive north out of Bordeaux on the N89 brings you to Libourne, the commercial center of the St. Emilion/Pomerol/Fronsac region. Ten minutes away is St. Emilion itself, one of the most famous and picturesque wine villages in the world. Here you can stroll the steep cobbled streets, shopping for souvenirs or tasting at the many wine shops of this mediaeval walled village. You'll stay in hotels housed in historic buildings and eat wonderful food in a variety of restaurants.
Chateaux to visit here must include Belair, with Belair's 20 acres of limestone caves and manager/winemaker Pascal Delbeck's unique inventions in vinification equipment. L'Angélus just down the road is an interesting and very friendly chateau, rated with the best of the appellation, where owner Hubert de Bouard will show you his special winemaking techniques. Cheval Blanc is on most people's list, and out of season you'll usually be shown around by the grower or the Cellarmaster. One of my very favorites is Figeac, the home of Thierry Manoncourt and his family, who has to be the epitome of the well-bred, hard working gentleman-winemaker. Another is Soutard, where Francois de Ligneris will expound on his philosophies on how he makes what is one of St. Emilion's best-respected wines. There are plenty of other 'tourist' chateaux to visit - the tourist office has a daily list of those that are open - but there are also a few that take only a limited number of visitors. They are small properties without a large staff, and when visiting them one should respect the limited time and heavy workload of the owner. Only ask for an appointment if you're a real enthusiast of their wine - otherwise you will quickly be bored with the technical and philosophical discussions!
On the famous plateau of Pomerol there are La Conseillante, the Thienpont family's Vieux Chateau Certan and l'Evangile (now owned by the Lafite Rothschild group). At Gazin one of the most gracious hosts, Nicolas de Baillencourt, who has made dramatic improvements to his family's estate in the last ten years. Petrus of course is the most famous neighbor here, but visits are extremely difficult to arrange, and probably not worth the effort unless you are a real collector of Petrus.
St. Emilion's most luxurious hotel is the Hostellierie de Plaisance, which is perched on the top of the monolithic church (carved out of the limestone hillside by the monks in the middle-ages). With spectacular views over the rooftops of the village and out to the Dordogne valley the hotel is hard to beat - and the family-owned atmosphere ensures some of the best service you'll find. The rooms are all air-conditioned, as is the gourmet restaurant, perhaps the best in town.
The Logis des Remparts, right in the middle of the village is a good value, and the newly-added swimming pool is welcome for those hot days - especially as the rooms are not air-conditioned. Right across the street is the green awning of Francis Goullée's outstanding restaurant. Here under the bustling care of Francis' wife Annie you'll eat some of the most innovative and best prepared cuisine in South-West France.
There are several other very good restaurants and bistros in the village, such as the imaginative menu of the Clos du Roi and the lively local bistro l'Envers du Décor, owned by the owner of Chateau Soutard. For a light lunch you can't beat the Amelia Canta in the square outside the church, with indoor or outside dining, great salads and cheerful service. For accommodation the Auberge de la Commanderie, next door to the Logis des Remparts, is a good value if the Logis is full, and about 5 minutes outside town is the newly remodeled Chateau Grand Barrail - sumptuous luxury, great cuisine and superb service - with prices that are high, but justified.
There are also several B&B-style accommodations in chateaux around the village. Franc-Mayne has a few luxurious rooms, with prices to match, and also operates three less expensive but very comfortable rooms at nearby Chateau Montalbert. Chateau Meylet is more of a farmhouse-style B&B more modest in décor and price, but still with en-suite baths and a warm welcome.
An hour's leisurely drive from St. Emilion or 30 minutes east from Bordeaux on the autoroute A62 will take you to Sauternes, home of the world's most famous, expensive and decadent wines. These wonderfully complex "liquoreux" wines are topped by the incomparable Chateau d'Yquem, which in the best vintages can age for well over 100 years making it the longest-living of any wine. Yquem is not impossible to visit, but it is necessary to write far in advance. Other top Sauternes to see are Guiraud, Suduiraut, the beautiful Rieussec and the small family-run and very interesting Rabaud Promis. There are several good restaurants in the area - the Sauternais, just down the hill from Yquem, a couple of lovely places in the village of Sauternes and for a real gourmet treat there is Claude Darroz's superb restaurant in Langon.
The most charming place to stay in the Sauternes is with Count Philippe de Chenerilles and his wife Isabelle. Their family home, Chateau d'Arbieu has five guest rooms and is located in Bazas on the D655 south of Langon. If you want to experience true French hospitality in the home of one of the ancient aristocratic families, you shouldn't leave France without spending a night or two with this couple. Filled with eclectic family heirlooms and antiques, the house exudes warmth and history as you sit around the de Chenerilles' dining table enjoying the art of fine food, wine and conversation late into the evening.
Bordering Sauternes on the way back to Bordeaux is the Graves (Sauternes and Barsac are actually sub-regions of this appellation). This is one part of Bordeaux's vineyards which is often overlooked by American visitors. The well-known first-growth Haut-Brion is found in Pessac, just inside Bordeaux's southern ring-road. The fine chateaux of de Fieuzal, Domaine de Chevalier, La Louvière and the pretty Carbonnieux and Smith-Haut Lafitte are located around Leognan and all welcome visitors, though properties here are less well indicated than in the Médoc. Here I am hard pressed to pick a favorite, but the warm welcome of Remi Edange at Domaine de Chevalier and the impeccable charm of Florence and Daniel Cathiard at Smith-Haut Lafitte are hard to match. Several good restaurants exist in Leognan and Gradignan, notably La Forge and Le Chalet Lyrique, and in Pessac the Cohé is only five minutes from Haut-Brion. If you visit Domaine de Chevalier or Fieuzal ask for directions to "Les Ailes", a super restaurant at the municipal airport and a favorite of the talented manager/winemaker of Domaine de Chevalier, Remi Edange.
In the spring of 1999 the Cathiards opened "Les Sources de Caudalie", an exciting new hotel on the property of Chateau Smith-Haut Lafitte. If any hotel could be called a "wine hotel", this is it. Not only is it built right in the middle of the vines, but it is also the center for the latest trend of beauty treatment, "Vinotherapy". Florence and Daniel's daughter has developed a unique line of cosmetics derived from grape seed oil which is the latest answer to skin aging, and their new spa is the product line's flagship.
Don't make the mistake of ignoring the outlying regions of Bordeaux. Outside of the famous appellations are the so-called "satellite" regions - Fronsac, Loupiac, St. Georges, the huge expanse of Entre-Deux Mers, the "Cotes" of Castillon, Blaye and Bourg - the names go on and on. For those looking for exceptional wines that you may not have seen at home, check out in Listrac Fourcas Loubany; on the right bank of the Gironde estuary Chateau Tayac and Roc de Cambes; in Barsac Doisy Dubroca (if you can find it!). Close by in Sauternes is Yquem's 'other' chateau, de Fargues; in Leognan (Graves) La Tour Martillac or Domaine de la Solitude. Then take off and find any of the hundreds of great winemakers hidden in the French countryside. Discover their wines, learn about their lifestyle, and out of season discover their true personalities.
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